vacation

View across the lake

Our last day in Varenna, my physicist was supposed to facilitate the morning lectures, but when Catbird whined about it at dinner the night before, FPs stepped up as substitutes.  Yeaay for the generosity of FPs!

That meant Catbird and physicist could ride the ferry to Bellagio for an outing together and a bit of lunch before schlepping our bags to the train station one last time.  

In Varenna, those of us not in attendance at the Fermi School mainly walked and ate (and ate and ate) and admired the gardens.  In Terezza across the water we wandered through the beautiful Villa Carlotta with its rich gardens.  In Bellagio,  "the pearl of Lago di Como," we shopped; climbing up and down steep and ancient walkways lent an element of adventure sorely lacking in Highland Mall so that even my physicist (a decided non-shopper) enjoyed himself. It goes without saying that in every town we visited in Italy, including those on the lake, Catbird enjoyed the gelato stands, which are thicker than Starbuck's in Austin by a factor of 4. 

 

Deadheading the beds

The quality of life on Lago di Como was different from the other towns we visited in Italy.  While we did not run into George Clooney, we can understand why he has a villa there.  The people were genuinely nice.  Even the tourists were nicer.  We have a few hypotheses:

1) There are no tour groups with their matching hats, megaphones and sperm-like burrowing at the egg of a single monument.  
2)  There isn't much to do, and if you want to go across the lake to not do much at another town, no need to worry about the schedule.  There is always another ferry in about 20 minutes; go eat a gelato while you wait.  
3)  No tipping.  The whole psychology of genuine hospitality vs. obsequious posturing for the almighty dollar--and the resentments inevitably engendered--could fill a dissertation or two.  
4)  Mountains at one's back, a quiet lake to the front, give a sense of place in the world.  For hundreds of years, people have walked the same steep ramp to the lake.  Though there are ongoing projects to improve and maintain life on the lake, the overwhelming sense is one of permanence.  And the train comes through just often enough, and the internet connection is sufficient, so that one doesn't feel completely isolated.  
5)  On the other hand, maybe its in the water.

 

Last afternoon in Varenna, Catbird and her Kindle (out of frame)