Venice

 

Rialto Bridge over the Grand Canal

Catbird is certain much bad poetry has been written about this lovely and completely incomparable city.  Certainly some beautiful music has been inspired here.  Our first night we zigzagged our way across many small canals, through damp narrow alleys, past dozens of Senegalese hawking discount bags (outside Prada and Louis Vittan stores) to listen to Vivaldi's Four Seasons.  Apparently Vivaldi scribbled together a whole lot of notes to fill the churches of Venezia, so he is much played.  In fact, judging from the posters, Vivaldi's Four Seasons is played here almost 24 - 7.

The Interpreti Veneziani, a string ensemble, performed to a full house of around 250 guests.  It was festival seating, which was good for us, as Catbird has a talent for scoring good seats, even when she is assigned to the balcony.  Third row, aisle, put us close enough to see them sweat.  While their technical execution may not have been spot on, their enthusiasm more than compensated.  And who could argue with a night of Vivaldi in Venice?

 

Cellist from Interpreti Veneziani

Afterward, Catbird and physicist strolled (cliche, but strolling is definitely what one does here) through the darkness to St. Mark's square.  Gondoliers were wrapping up their trade for the night, lovers smooched in dark doorways, and live music competed from opposite sides of the square.  We all bumped along to the Klesmer music on the north side of the square, and from the south side, Yessir, That's My Baby drove the lingering strains of Vivaldi right out of our heads.


Water pooled and was rising in the center of the square, a tidal function that is common but not usually bad enough to flood the stores.   A few--mostly young or inebriated--folks who apparently have a shaky grasp of germ theory waded in the water.  Catbird's hot and swollen feet begged for cool respite in the water, but Catbird didn't need the guidebook to tell her to avoid water from the canal at all costs, even external exposure.  Sewage disposal is still not what it could be in Venice.  Euw.


Venice is another city almost left off our itinerary.  The Podcast, How to Tour Italy, says it is "so crazy expensive that you almost shouldn't go."  Well, Catbird was so pleased to have Firenze in her sights, she figured she could survive without Venice.  Fortunately, my physicist insisted we could not do Italia without Venezia.  For which Catbird says: Thank you thank you thank you.


While Venice is exactly as you would expect, it is also unlike anything you can imagine.  Thanks to Our Russkie friend,we were lucky enough to get a discount on our very nice, very well-located room.  And we've skipped the big ticket items (e.g. alcohol, Venetian glass) and managed to picnic on bread, olives, cheese and fruit at far less cost than a restaurant meal.

There are too many museums, churches and historic landmarks to detail here, but Catbird may include some highlight later.  As my physicist says, Venice itself is one big museum and just being here is quite an adventure.